VADER Aluminum Racing Rods



Raising the bar once again, we give you some extremely durable, functional, and absolute sik-designed aluminum racing connecting rods for your hot-rod.  Not for the timid, not for the squeamish, and definitely not for those that think they can make mountains of horsepower and won't ever have to pop their hoods again. This is a REAL racer's rod.

  • FFWD BILLET ALUMINUM RACING RODS are CAD designed and CNC machined out of proprietary aluminum bar stock developed exclusively for FFWD.
  • OUR ALLOY IS 35% HIGHER IN YIELD STRENGTH over most others “high performance” alloy and is also higher in strength-to-weight performance than Grade 5 Titanium.
  • EACH ROD IS FULLY CRYO PROCESSED…a trusted and proven procedure we have done for the past 13 years to all of our turnkey race motors swinging the doors out of this shop. If it didn’t work, we wouldn’t be doing it. Period.
  • OUR RODS FEATURE AN EXOTIC OIL SHEDDING COATING that allows the part to run cooler…resulting in a longer lasting rod.

 Combined, what all of this will give you is an extremely tough, durable, and refined billet aluminum racing connecting rod that can take all the beating you choose to throw at it. And why couldn't it? If you're needing rods like these, you'll definitely be beating on them. We understand this. We've got your back.






CAD PicThat is the very same thing we mumbled years ago when we were sampling every rod out there on the market in our builds trying to find the perfect "builder-friendly" piece but still able to withstand copious amounts of HP. While assembling motors with these rod contestants, we found a number problems...including (but not limited to):

 The block needing some MAJOR hogging for rod "swing" clearance, the pin end needing fitment to the chosen pin and/or the pin end needing width "adjustment" to fit between those snazzy custom slug pin bosses, rods having to be installed (ridiculously) from the bottom because their widths were larger than the bores, or even perhaps the big end was honed such on the high side that a resizing was absolutely necessary. We didn't want that...see you at the hone machine...and in some cases, spending time at the good ol' Bridgeport to "make it work".

 This is unacceptable and inherent with rod designs by individuals that don't understand what it's like to torque a bolt when installing a connecting rod. To put it more ghetto, it pissed us off so badly that the cat's ass hurt for a week.

 Our rods are not designed by a tie-clad, Khaki-wearing CAD geek and/or a "cycle-start-button-pushing" monkey with no idea of what a rod should be, what a rod should be designed like, or how a rod should be installed. But by folks that actually build motors AND beat the Jesus out of what they build.

 True...it is impossible to cover every single scenario when it comes to clearances and rotational setups. That is why builders are called "builders". It is the builder's job to blueprint the components to assure proper clearances as well as the correct fitment/matching of those components...LOTS of work. But we strive to decrease frustrations as much as possible for your build by understanding this assembly process.

 It's easy to design a buff aluminum connecting rod. Most designers just slap on the meat where stress analysis says to slap it on (if they even went that far with it)...call it "the strongest connecting rod out there" in their marketing campaigns...then kick back by the phones ready to take your cash. We don't subscribe to this haphazard approach. In a world where you'll be staring at the rod sitting on mom's coffee table while snapping pics to show-off in the forums like they were your first newborn, this mindset would be fine...but you are INSTALLING these suckers too. Whole different ballgame my friends. Especially with stroked configurations.

 We feel that we have the best "strength per gram" ratio in the industry. Many many hours have been invested in finding the perfect balance between being "builder friendly" by strategic mass reduction while still maintaining all-out steroidal brute strength. A very delicate balance...but a balance that has been successfully achieved.



VADER Page 1Our standard length 6 bolt “Hybrid” 4G63 Vader rod weighs in at a lean and mean 486 grams. To put this into perspective, a similarly configured Manley “Turbo Tuff” series steel rod weighs a fat Albert 697 grams.

That’s an incredible 31% reduction in reciprocating weight over the Manley rod. Looking at it a different way, and doing some simple math, using our aluminum rod will drop an incredible 844 grams (1.86 pounds) from off of your total reciprocating mass over the Manley steel rod! That’s sort of a big deal.

We also match balance our rod sets within a single gram or less so rest assured, nothing funky goes on when it comes to balancing. Yep…we put in the overtime at the gram scale. Not for distributing weed…but for you and your motor.



VADER Page 2We didn't buy into the "serrated circle edge" concept of maintaining strict cap alignment. Dowel pins are where it's at in this club. This is a shot of the rod cap and rod. Notice the black alignment dowels in the rod end as well as the spin pin in the cap itself. This bearing aint goin' anywheres. Bearing fretting? Our rods have never heard of it. These rods maintain precision alignment within .0002" even after hundreds of passes. Some have pounded on these babies by throwing over 500 dyno pulls at them with no failures and bearings that still look brand new! That is A LOT of abuse folks






VADER Page 3

Here is a good shot of a drilled King XP bearing with the spin pin peaking out…the only sure-fire way of making sure that the bearing stays put at extreme horsepower levels (tangs only locate the bearing shells laterally within the rod’s big end). This spin pin (which is pressed into the cap) is why modified bearings are needed in order for you to use these rods. You just can’t slide “normal” rod bearings into this rod.

For an additional cost, we’d be happy to provide pre-modified bearing sets for you…a hole drilled deadnuts in the center of the shell where it needs to be…so no worries. This is a VERY important procedure to bestow upon us as if that spin pin hole isn’t located accurately and/or drilled concentric, you will have a cocked bearing in the rod and possibly not even know it…until the rod goes punting out the block on its way to the red planet. You won’t be happy…so we won’t be happy.

Why do we offer such a service right at the point of purchase? We don’t like time and dollar wasters…and we’re betting you don’t eit her. Follow:

  1. Ship your bearings to them for the drilling service (that you bought from XYZ Racing)
  2. Pay for the drilling
  3. Pay once again to get them returned to you

If you’d rather throw your hard-earned money away by doing the 3-step dance above, we’ll take it and put it to better use…we’ll buy beer.