Our standard length 6 bolt “Hybrid” 4G63 Vader rod weighs in at a lean and mean 486 grams. To put this into perspective, a similarly configured Manley “Turbo Tuff” series steel rod weighs a fat Albert 697 grams.

That’s an incredible 31% reduction in reciprocating weight over the Manley rod. Looking at it a different way, and doing some simple math, using our aluminum rod will drop an incredible 844 grams (1.86 pounds) from off of your total reciprocating mass over the Manley steel rod! That’s sort of a big deal.


We also match balance our rod sets within a single gram or less so rest assured, nothing funky goes on when it comes to balancing. Yep…we put in the overtime at the gram scale. Not for distributing weed…but for you and your motor.















We didn't buy into the "serrated circle edge" concept of maintaining strict cap alignment. Dowel pins are where it's at in this club.

This is a shot of the rod cap and rod. Notice the black alignment dowels in the rod end as well as the spin pin in the cap itself. This bearing aint goin' anywheres. Bearing fretting? Our rods have never heard of it.

These rods maintain precision alignment within .0002" even after hundreds of passes. Some have pounded on these babies by throwing

 over 500 dyno pulls at them with no failures and bearings that still look brand new! That is A LOT of abuse folks















Here is a good shot of a drilled King XP bearing with the spin pin peaking out…the only sure-fire way of making sure that the bearing stays put at extreme horsepower levels (tangs only locate the bearing shells laterally within the rod’s big end). This spin pin (which is pressed into the cap) is why modified bearings are needed in order for you to use these rods. You just can’t slide “normal” rod bearings into this rod.

For an additional cost, we’d be happy to provide pre-modified bearing sets for you…a hole drilled deadnuts in the center of the shell where it needs to be…so no worries. This is a VERY important procedure to bestow upon us as if that spin pin hole isn’t located accurately and/or drilled concentric, you will have a cocked bearing in the rod and possibly not even know it…until the rod goes punting out the block on its way to the red planet. You won’t be happy…so we won’t be happy.


Why do we offer such a service right at the point of purchase? We don’t like time and dollar wasters…and we’re betting you don’t eit her. Follow:


  1. Ship your bearings to them for the drilling service (that you bought from XYZ Racing)
  2. Pay for the drilling
  3. Pay once again to get them returned to you


If you’d rather throw your hard-earned money away by doing the 3-step dance above, we’ll take it and put it to better use…we’ll buy beer.







We outfit these rods with ARP2000 bolts, which are MORE than adequate for aluminum rods usage. Only in a steel rod a higher grade bolt is necessary (i.e. ARP L19) when pushing those stratospheric horsepower levels and even then, a very small percentage actually needs a grade of bolt that high. Why does steel ask mama for more? Because that steel rod is not only a heavy beater stick, a steel rod is less forgiving and needs those Superman bolts when it's being slammed up and down in the bore as opposed to these feather-weight aluminum billet rods. The less reciprocating weight you have...the less dynamic force that is put on those bolts.

How did we know which grade to run with? We're not just talking out of our bum here. Using ARP's proprietary software, we were able to calculate the exact grade of bolt needed for various extreme performance scenarios. Variables such as stroke, piston weight, rod weight, max RPM and C-C rod length were used in the equation. Through a little science, calc button pushing, and some magic, BAM...instant grade of bolt needed for the job.

Any wallet grabbers that try to sell you different, kick them in the Lance Armstrong, and walk away. We provide you with exactly the bolt you NEED. Not ill-directed marketing tactics.

One other interesting side note...these bolts are not installed at "torque to yield" values...there is a 25% buffer in the amount of torque needed to match what we used when honing these babies. This helps when really pounding on these rods with the higher expansion rate of aluminum as opposed to steel. If the alloy expands too much (imagine Mach 1 speeds and very high loads), the bolts don't like it...and they will not return to their original length if they were already torqued at yield values. Not good. Junk it...

So having an extra 25% of wiggle room is a good thing. Bolts likey! Let's race.






We'll start off by saying heat transfers more rapidly when there is a large difference in temperature. This coating disperses heat by shedding oil from off of the rod quicker. By shedding the oil more rapidly, cooler oil is splashed onto the rod more frequently. If oil "sticks" to the part longer, it absorbs less heat and blocks cooler oil from contacting the hot surface. We don't want that.

You have to remember...the longer hot oil sticks to a part, the more the part is going to increase in temperature. The hotter the part becomes, the more its yield strength goes down. Heat kills parts...heat likes your pocketbook. Vader will help prevent this from happening. 

We don't just spray the rod, cure it, and call it done, No sir...we spray the rod, cure it, and stick it BACK into the machine for a few more necessary operations. This is why our rods look different from anyone else's in the world. It's the details my friends. This militant process is brute stuff for those that don't attend church regularly.


Sure, this takes more time, but we think it's well worth doing as we not only wanted to create a kick-dick performing product, but a product that looked like it was going to crush skulls and egos...pure evil.