CAMS/ADJUSTABLE CAM GEARS

INTRODUCING THE LONG AWAITED...

 KING KAMS

Discriminating cams for discriminating racers.

With over a year in the works, it is finally time to release them.

What are they? What planet do they come from?

King Kams (KKs) were born out of necessity. Why? Not being ones to jump on anyone's bandwagon nor being ones to just rehash grinds that have already been done and just changing one little measurement to call them "new", we wanted to create a totally new camshaft that would offer some extreme sik performance in the quarter mile. We think we have achieved it with these sticks. We just didn't plomp down some specs that "sounded good" to grind on these billets. Mucho math and many broken #2s went behind the design of these lobes.

Where do our billets come from?

These are NOT Made in Indonesia crap sticks like other popular cams sold today are. These KKs are NOT regrinds. Our billets are made by the same folks that produce cam billets for Crower. Let us point out something here and make it perfectly clear...NOT for Brian Crower...we're talking for THE Crower Cams and Equipment Company. The ORIGINAL Crower. BIG difference. We would not have messed with putting out anything less when it comes to FFWD standards.

What application are these cams good for?

The best performance is going to be rewarded to the guys running 2.0 motors and winding them to the moon.  Stroked motors will smile if you're already making the power up there. Usage of these cams in a ported head is a MUST as most heads fall on their face flow-wise close to .400 lift on the intake side. Stiff Springs? Definitely. Adjustable cam gears? For sure! The KKs take the ball and run at 6k on up and never stop asking mama for more. If you have the head properly setup for it, then these cams will be happy....which will make YOU happy.

You have to remember...we designed these cams for the racer as we are racer's ourselves...not for the average Joe the Plumbers out there that likes a quick jaunt to Sonic every now and again riding on Hibdon specials. Serious stuff for serious minds. C and D students need not apply.

Is there any special consideration I need to have when running such a crazy cam?

By all means....and we're sure you expected this.

Although in all the test motors we installed these cams into exhibited no clearance issues (piston to valve), we still urge you to double check clearances in YOUR motor at all possible degree marks on your cam gears in order to ascertain YOUR usable and safe cam phasing range. We have no clue what has been done to your head, block, what valves, which HG, which pistons, yada yada yada

Stock guide height is recommended. Do not jack with it.

Idle will be rumpity rumpity rump. Idle speed should be increased to 1000-1200 for best results and/or vacuum.

Utilizing good practices in checking your valve stem height is mandatory using these cams. Do not leave anything to chance either by you or the guys doing your seat and guide work. If this step is overlooked, then improper stem to rocker pad contact is compromised at full lift which will give you a nasty little reward for your laziness at the time when you need it the least.

 No ifs and or buts about it. Do it...or lose it.

Pictured here is the profile (shape) of the KKs. The blue is the intake...the red is the exhaust. Check out the ramping of these puppies. This is why we say that high pressure springs are a must when using the KKs. This type of valve acceleration needs proper event control.  Click pic to enlarge.

Here is the cam report of our KKs. All info you would ever need comes from our Cam Pro Plus setup. No way to hide or inflate figures here. These measurements were taken at the valve AND installed into an actual motor. Real deal...real world info for all the world to see. No educated guesstimates...no "it might be's...no BS. Click pic to enlarge.

Just to give you an idea of what these numbers are as compared to the ol' tried and true HKSs, check out these 264/272 specs spun around in the same motor. Not saying one is better than the other...both cam profiles have their applications. Click pic to enlarge.

.

ATTN all 97-99 owners: Do you hate drilling and tapping the end of the intake cam in order for your CAS to bolt up? Raise your hands up and wave bye bye to such brutality...now these sticks come pre-drilled and tapped right out of the box! Genius!

As a bonus, and feeling that it was a must with these billets, we apply a special "parkerization" coating to both the lobes and journals. This will substantially lower the risk of galling and/or scoring during that crucial break-in process. This is a first of its kind with Mitsu camshafts!

The bottom line here is, if you're seriously competitive, and any grind from "off the shelf" just won't do, then stop looking and give these a day in court.

For the ones that prefer to lead...not follow.

Which one are you?

$495.00 FFWD King Kams (intake/exhaust)

Special Introductory Price!

Is that a mistake? Don't you mean HKS? Hell no! We got the sparks flyin' high on the cam grinder machine and now can offer you a near spittin' mirror image of HKS's popular Mitsu cam grinds at nearly half the cost. Yep...you heard right!

These grinds are the newest addition to our line-up. It's the closest thing you're going to get to bolting on "HKS style" power but without the BS of inflated cost and/or nationwide backordering. Your ship has come home...and this boat isn't full of rice and ramens.

Our Number 1 question that is pitched to us about these cams, "Can I install these straight up?"

Answer: Although HKS cams do degree in friendly, they are not always "deadnuts" and zeroed right out of their boxes to YOUR motor. EVERY motor we have built needed some amount of degreeing to make PERFECT phase between crank and cams. Lots of factors involved here folks such as the amount of material shaved off the head, headgasket thickness, block deck height to the crank centerline, cam profile production tolerances, and variances in valvetrain geometry all affect phasing. Remember, we're talking about a vast majority of the parts within a motor are cast pieces. Nothing is perfect. Nothing is consistent.

Now, having good consistency in cam specs from one cam to the next is most important and HKS is always on their game. Crower's cams were a close second in grind tolerance...Web's was at the bottom of the barrel. What a surprise.

Perhaps you're in individual who could care less about "zero degrees", doesn't want to screw around with the egg-head science, and just wants to bolt-on, go race, and be nasty? We can relate to your enthusiasm so being as it may, with all things considered, and with the tight tolerances that HKS cams possess...

YES, YOU CAN INSTALL THESE STRAIGHT UP. These cams follow the same profile as HKS cams along with having the same exercised quality control in each "stick". Each cam cut is exactly like the last. In other words, if HKS camshafts have it, so do these.

Our Number Two question most often asked, "Do I need upgraded springs in order to run these cams?"

Our final answer: In our personal experience, ANY kind of cam sold out there no matter what the profile is, would greatly benefit from using stiffer than OEM springs. Smoother power curves, a more linear powerband, raised peak power levels at higher RPMs, and less chance of valve bounce (which is a HP killer) is enhanced by the usage of some sort of upgraded spring kit. Of course, higher control of the valve event will more so keep float from rearing its ugly head.

So, to get back to the question, we recommend an upgraded spring kit not only for the reasons mentioned above but also to fully utilize what the cams themselves can do.

Can you still run these cams even though your cash allotment for a spring kit was spent on alimony, bail bonds, or maybe even college tuition? If you must do it that way, then take it easy with your motor...don't rev to the moon.

We most fittingly label these grinds: D-K-S

DKS1

You're in the market for the time-tested and proven HKS 264/272 combination? This is what you get. You can't go wrong.

INTAKE

Max Valve Lift: .397"

Duration @ .050": 183 crank degrees

Centerline: 102 degrees

EXHAUST

Max Valve Lift: .379"

Duration @ .050": 192 crank degrees

Lobe Center: 102 degrees

Note: The specs above were taken directly from the cam itself using Cam Analyzer v3.2 software...not an estimation of "what it should be" like HKS prints in their spec sheet. Keep in mind that the numbers represented above are at .050" tappet lift...not 1mm like HKS uses. Changing the tappet lift number will affect certain criteria such as duration and valve events. We use real, "more-friendly" usable numbers when measuring this stuff. Not "advertised" duration or fluffed figures. Compare smartly.

$350.00  DKS1 (intake/exhaust)

  LOWERED PRICE!! NOW ONLY $297!!

Note: There will be a $40.00 core charge applied automatically by our racecart. This is a refundable charge once we receive your GOOD cam cores within 15 days of invoice date. What are good cores? No scratched/scored/rust pitted journals, fractures of any kind, and no heavy grooves at the cam seal area. Rusty lobes are "OK" but not pitted.

Includes a full ONE YEAR WARRANTY!

For all the 97-99 cars out there, you will have to drill and tap the end of the intake cam in order to bolt on your CAS.

DKS2

Yep...you guessed it. These grinds mirror the HKS 272/272 combination. This combination has been used for years in some of the fastest DSMs on the planet.

INTAKE

Max Valve Lift: .397"

Duration @ .050": 192 crank degrees

Centerline: 102 degrees

EXHAUST

Max Valve Lift: .379"

Duration @ .050": 192 crank degrees

Centerline: 102 degrees

Note: The specs above were taken directly from the cam itself using Cam Analyzer v3.2 software...not an estimation of "what it should be" like HKS prints in their spec sheet. Keep in mind that the numbers represented above are at .050" tappet lift...not 1mm like HKS uses. Changing the tappet lift number will affect certain criteria such as duration and valve events. We use real, "more-friendly" usable numbers when measuring this stuff. Not "advertised" duration or fluffed figures. Compare smartly.

$350.00  DKS2 (intake/exhaust)

  LOWERED PRICE!! NOW ONLY $297!!

Note: There will be a $40.00 core charge applied automatically by our racecart. This is a refundable charge once we receive your GOOD cam cores within 15 days of invoice date. What are good cores? No scratched/scored/rust pitted journals, fractures of any kind, and no heavy grooves at the cam seal area. Rusty lobes are "OK" but not pitted.

Includes a full ONE YEAR WARRANTY!

For all the 97-99 cars out there, you will have to drill and tap the end of the intake cam in order to bolt on your CAS.

DKS3

The latest and greatest offering from within our walls and cam grinder machine. We had many requests for us to produce the new DSM 280s in a regrind. Well, you asked for it...you got it. The new 280/280 combination from FFWD! If you're running a 2.0 and really like living past 8 grand, then these were designed for you. Strong pull in the mids with bias on upper range that just keeps on going and going like the Energizer bunny. With the specs these cams have, along with the RPM range they really sing at, it is absolutely mandatory to run an upgraded spring kit. But I'm sure you already knew that didn't you?

INTAKE

Max Valve Lift: .402"

Duration @ .050": 203 crank degrees

Centerline: 108 degrees

EXHAUST

Max Valve Lift: .382"

Duration @ .050": 203 crank degrees

Centerline: 108 degrees

Note: The specs above were taken directly from the cam itself using Cam Analyzer v3.2 software...not an estimation of "what it should be" like HKS prints in their spec sheet. Keep in mind that the numbers represented above are at .050" tappet lift...not 1mm like HKS uses. Changing the tappet lift number will affect certain criteria such as duration and valve events. We use real, "more-friendly" usable numbers when measuring this stuff. Not "advertised" duration or fluffed figures. Compare smartly.

$350.00 DKS3 (intake/exhaust)

  LOWERED PRICE!! NOW ONLY $297!!

Note: There will be a $60.00 core charge applied automatically by our racecart. This is a refundable charge once we receive your GOOD cam cores within 15 days of invoice date. What are good cores? No scratched/scored/rust pitted journals, fractures of any kind, and no heavy grooves at the cam seal area. Rusty lobes are "OK" but not pitted.

Includes a full ONE YEAR WARRANTY!

For all the 97-99 cars out there, you will have to drill and tap the end of the intake cam in order to bolt on your CAS.

FIDANZA ADJUSTABLE CAM GEARS

We have been waiting a long time for these pups and Fidanza filled the bill with their new, innovative, and very affordable cam gears.

Manufactured from the same material as their track-proven flywheels (6061 T6), they feature a coal blasted belt surface (for better grip), then hard anodized for increased durability.

What separates these gears from the rest? Try this one on for size. The outer ring is retained to the inner ring not by the usual screw method but by incorporating stainless steel studs! Not 3...but 5 so rest assured that your cam won't fly right off its timing or even worse, your piston shakes hands with your valves. The studs are Loc-Tited on the backside and the inner gear is secured with lock washers and nuts. Say goodbye to putting the ol' stress-ola on soft aluminum threads when torqueing down these nuts. Studs are where it's at. Also, for the 95-96 cars out there, no modifications are necessary for the gear to work with your cam angle sensor. Just bolt 'er on!

Here you will notice that it has a full 24 degrees of range from left to right which is the widest adjustment range possible in adjustable cam gears sold today. Quite handy if your crank/cam relationship is excessively out of phase for "zeroing" in.

Here is its backside that shows off the 5 Lock-Tited allen heads on the outer gear. That outer ring aint goin' nowhere once you crank those nuts down.

Whether you think you can't afford them or simply say, "those are for the trailer queens out there", we are telling you that not only are they an absolute must not only when degreeing in your cams for proper phasing at time of doing that motor rebuild, but also allows you to play around with your torque curve to peak exactly where you want it to or even widen your lobe separation for better spool if necessary. This will compliment your cams greatly which in turn will make...you guessed it...POWER. Top it all off by making your motor look like it just donned a tux and they are affordably priced to boot!

$250.00/pair (intake/exhaust)